Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

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2022 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Romanee-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France 750ml

The 2022 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with scents of cherries, wild berries, rose petals and exotic spices. Full-bodied, fleshy and perfumed, its velvety attack segues into a fleshy, layered, almost unctuous core of lively fruit that's framed by sweet, powdery tannins, concluding with a long, resonant finish.

2022 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Richebourg Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France 750ml

The 2022 Richebourg Grand Cru is brilliant, mingling aromas of dark berries and plums with notions of blood orange, rose petals, exotic spices and smoke in an incipiently complex mélange. Full-bodied, deep and complete, it's seamless and multidimensional, its layered core of fruit almost entirely concealing its ample endowment of sweet, powdery tannin.

2019 Giacomo Conterno Monfortino, Barolo Riserva DOCG, Italy 750ml

100 points Monica Larner (Wine Advocate): “It's been a while, alas. The last vintage of this legendary wine was 2015. Skipping forward to a year of natural richness and concentration, the Giacomo Conterno 2019 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a magnificently executed wine. It carefully reins in the soaring power of Nebbiolo and whittles it down to extreme finesse and precision. This is the essence of the grape with no extra bells or whistles. Roberto Conterno tells me he chose not to make Monfortino in 2016 because he considered 2015 to be a superior vintage.

2019 Giacomo Conterno Monfortino, Barolo Riserva DOCG, Italy 1.5L

100 points Monica Larner (Wine Advocate): “It's been a while, alas. The last vintage of this legendary wine was 2015. Skipping forward to a year of natural richness and concentration, the Giacomo Conterno 2019 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a magnificently executed wine. It carefully reins in the soaring power of Nebbiolo and whittles it down to extreme finesse and precision. This is the essence of the grape with no extra bells or whistles. Roberto Conterno tells me he chose not to make Monfortino in 2016 because he considered 2015 to be a superior vintage.

2021 G. B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero, Barolo DOCG, Italy 750ml

The Comm. G.B. Burlotto 2021 Barolo Monvigliero is another headline achievement from vintner Fabio Alessandria. This wine certainly stands out in a crowd, and I would argue that its floral and herbal notes (linked to traditional whole-cluster fermentation) are more expertly and elegantly presented in this epic vintage. The wine shows growing vertical intensity with rosehip tea, crushed stone, bergamot and a spicy hint of ginger. But it remains demure all the while.

2001 Chateau Doisy-Vedrines, Sauternes, France 750ml

Having tasted the Doisy-Vedrines 2001 on numerous occasions, I was expecting great things. Here under blind conditions – it delivered. It has always sported a wonderful bouquet with well defined citrus-driven fruit, augmented by orange blossom and barley sugar scents, hints of lemon curd in the background. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity. Orange peel and apricot abound and lead to a focused and beautifully defined tense finish that contradict this estate's tendency towards fatness and richness. This is a great Barsac from Olivier Castèja and has a bright future ahead.

2004 Chateau Doisy-Vedrines, Sauternes, France 375ml

The 2004 Doisy-Vedrines appears to be maturing nicely, the nose far more exuberant and engaging than the Doisy-Daene, attired with seductive scents of butterscotch, creme caramel and just a touch of chlorophyll. The palate is viscous on the entry with nicely judged acidity. This feels fat in the mouth, with good weight and depth on the satisfying finish. This is a highly recommended Sauternes for the vintage (NM)

1990 Chateau Doisy-Vedrines, Sauternes, France 1.5L

Tasted at the Doisy-Védrines vertical at the château, the splendid 1990 Château Doisy-Védrines has a lucid gold colour. It has a lovely Barsac nose of orange cut marmalade, quince and honey, great definition, with touches of hazelnut and linseed coming through. The palate is powerful, a little low in acidity but very pure and with great definition and harmony. There are ripe oranges, honey, apricot with a touch of quince forming the long, persistent finish that maintains freshness right to the end. This is a great Doisy-Védrines. (NM)

 

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