The Comm. G.B. Burlotto 2021 Barolo Monvigliero is another headline achievement from vintner Fabio Alessandria. This wine certainly stands out in a crowd, and I would argue that its floral and herbal notes (linked to traditional whole-cluster fermentation) are more expertly and elegantly presented in this epic vintage. The wine shows growing vertical intensity with rosehip tea, crushed stone, bergamot and a spicy hint of ginger. But it remains demure all the while. The tannins in the Monvigliero are more resolved compared to the Cannubi and certainly the Castelletto, but the wine offers a different kind of structural backbone that permeates the entire palate with smooth silkiness, as opposed to showing up as textural firmness on the finish alone. That said, you'll want to put this bottle aside for more cellar aging. (ML)
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