Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

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WA

2020 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Montrachet Grand Cru, Cote de Beaune, France 750ml

Soaring from the glass with aromas of buttered orchard fruit, honeycomb, orange oil, peach and nutmeg, the 2020 Montrachet Grand Cru is full-bodied, rich and satiny, with a layered, muscular mid-palate that's girdled by lively acids and a long, resonant finish. This is an expressive, dramatic Montrachet that can comfortably keep company with the superb 2017, 2018 and 2019 vintages.

2000 Chateau Calon-Segur, Saint-Estephe, France 750ml

Tasted from an ex-château bottle at BI Wine & Spirits Calon-Segur dinner in London. The 2000 Calon Segur is one of those wines that reminds you how great the millennial vintage could be. Now at fifteen years old, it has a brilliant, vivacious red berry nose infused with ash and cigar box aromas. The detail here is a beguiling and it just "sings" Saint Estèphe. The palate is medium-bodied with dense, firm tannin that provide a rigid backbone, but it is swathed in copious tobacco-drenched black fruit and a superb line of acidity.

2006 Chateau Pontet-Canet, Pauillac, France 6.0L

Tasted at Bordeaux Index's annual 10-Year On tasting in London. The 2006 Château Pontet-Canet has an extremely pure, vivacious, perfumed bouquet with crushed violets infusing the blueberry and blackberry fruit. But it is all about the detail and precision in this wine. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip in the mouth: lightly toasted black fruit, dried orange peel, cedar and a pinch of white pepper. This feels very cohesive and poised with just a touch of mint entering right on the finish. What a great wine from Alfred Tesseron and Jean-Michel Comme.

2015 Bollinger La Grande Annee Brut, Champagne, France 1.5L

The 2015 Brut La Grande Année was disgorged last year with eight grams per liter dosage. The wine has turned out beautifully, exhibiting a more muscular, old-school Bollinger profile in contrast to the unusually racy, fine-boned 2014 that preceded it. Wafting from the glass with notes of pear, orange oil and white flowers mingled with notions of mocha, toasted hazelnuts and fino sherry, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and textural, with a dense core of fruit framed by chalky structuring extract, concluding with a long, sapid finish. (WK)

2005 Domaine Francois Raveneau Montee de Tonnerre, Chablis Premier Cru, France 750ml

Raveneau's 2005 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre is beginning to drink beautifully as it approaches age 13, wafting from the glass with a complex bouquet of lemon oil, mandarin, drawn butter, iodine, beeswax and dried white flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and textural, with the mid-palate richness and generosity of a warm vintage but with a delineated, chalky finish that's faithful to the Montée de Tonnerre. This is a gourmand, fleshy vintage for Raveneau—though not to the extent of 2006 or 2003—but the wines are aging gracefully. (WK)

2011 Marques de Murrieta Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial, Rioja DOCa, Spain 750ml

The 2011 Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial was produced with a blend of 84% Tempranillo and 16% Mazuelo (Cariñena) from a plot called La Plana that was planted in 1950 at 485 meters in altitude, the highest in the Ygay property. The grapes were picked between September 17 and 22, and the Mazuelo was later, on September 28. The bunches were destemmed and lightly crushed and put to ferment in stainless steel for 11 days with constant pump-overs and punch-downs. The Tempranillo matured for 28 months in American oak barrels and the Mazuelo for 28 months in French barriques.

2010 Marques de Murrieta Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial, Rioja DOCa, Spain 750ml

I had very high expectations for the 2010 Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial, and the wine delivered as expected. 2010 was one of the finest vintages in Rioja in recent years, and this blend of Tempranillo with 15% Mazuelo (Cariñena) has to be one of the finest modern day Castillo de Ygays. The grapes come from a plot planted in 1966 at 485 meters in altitude, the highest in the estate, and the vines yielded 3,500 kilos per hectare. The two varieties fermented separately in stainless steel for 11 days, and the wine spent 26 months in a mixture of American and French oak barrels.

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