Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy

Mid lemon yellow. Here there is a waxy note to the nose which is partly correctly ripe fruit, partly a little touch of oak, and partly the charm of the vintage. Good acidity, significant length, a little bit of orange rind coming in to the profile.

Clear pure colour, a touch more yellow than some. The de Montille 2020 Puligny delivers a beautiful bouquet, with a perfectly judged balance of ripeness, all the aromatics are there while the acidity behind stays good. This is a lovely and persistent example. Bravo. 

Glowing pale lemon, with a racy chiselled and fine bouquet, really stylish, some fresh apple notes. Good tension behind, this is not at all a monster and nor does it show the cooked stones of some Remillys in hot, dry vintages. A balanced 12.8% alcohol.

90% whole cluster. Imperial purple. This wine has the ideal balance between whole bunch freshness and the fruit of the vintage, which does not have an exaggerated ripeness here. Tight firm finish, crunchy with dry tannins which should resolve without difficulty given a little time.

This cuvée will join the kosher group next year. Fresh green, elegant bouquet with some lime threads, quite complex. A little bit of white fruit, flesh even, on the palate, fattens out the back end. Good wine.

Glowing rich purple, and here the bouquet is much more like normal. 80% whole bunch. 13.3%. This has the flowing sense of majesty, along with the firmer finish, but here the fruit swarms all over the back end. Very complete, very fine, luxury without vulgarity. And excellent persistence.

100% whole cluster. 12.7% finished, pH3.55. Dark deep purple. Sensual fruit, not over-ripe, only light evidence of whole bunch. Very powerful tough fresh structure at the finish, not for the faint hearted but potentially excellent.

50% whole cluster, largely from Hubert’s original Clos. Just above 13%. Heady deep purple, peppery on the nose, blended in with a deep coulis de framboise style fruit. Powerful and ripe fruit once again, with physiological elements which are only just ripe. Several of the de Montille reds are showing the paradox of the vintage, one which I think will resolve itself positively.

50% whole bunch, as Etienne and Brian think that this vineyard doesn’t work with more than that. Vibrant fresh purple in colour, slightly reductive nose, temporary, soon blows off to reveal another succulent deep red fruit, good thread of mineral acidity, strict concentrated fruit at the finish.

Pale lemon colour. I love the bouquet here, very refined, very Corton-Charlemagne, not at all over ripe, excellent intensity through the middle of the palate, steely with some lime blossom notes. textbook example! 13.4% alcohol.