Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy

Mid lemon yellow. This is slightly more perfumed than its neighbour on the nose, and with a striking liveliness on the palate, an excellent balance, a very light menthol here, this will be an excellent Champgains.

Glowing rich purple, and here the bouquet is much more like normal. 80% whole bunch. 13.3%. This has the flowing sense of majesty, along with the firmer finish, but here the fruit swarms all over the back end. Very complete, very fine, luxury without vulgarity. And excellent persistence.

100% whole cluster. 12.7% finished, pH3.55. Dark deep purple. Sensual fruit, not over-ripe, only light evidence of whole bunch. Very powerful tough fresh structure at the finish, not for the faint hearted but potentially excellent.

50% whole cluster, largely from Hubert’s original Clos. Just above 13%. Heady deep purple, peppery on the nose, blended in with a deep coulis de framboise style fruit. Powerful and ripe fruit once again, with physiological elements which are only just ripe. Several of the de Montille reds are showing the paradox of the vintage, one which I think will resolve itself positively.

90% whole cluster. Imperial purple. This wine has the ideal balance between whole bunch freshness and the fruit of the vintage, which does not have an exaggerated ripeness here. Tight firm finish, crunchy with dry tannins which should resolve without difficulty given a little time.

50% whole bunch, as Etienne and Brian think that this vineyard doesn’t work with more than that. Vibrant fresh purple in colour, slightly reductive nose, temporary, soon blows off to reveal another succulent deep red fruit, good thread of mineral acidity, strict concentrated fruit at the finish.

Pale lemon colour. I love the bouquet here, very refined, very Corton-Charlemagne, not at all over ripe, excellent intensity through the middle of the palate, steely with some lime blossom notes. textbook example! 13.4% alcohol.

Pale mid lemon, some bacon fat on the nose. There is plenty of volume on the palate, good acidity, some citrus notes too, complex, fairly detailed and persistent with a good mineral thread. Exemplary. 13.2% alcohol.

Pale lemon colour. A whiff of riper fruit on the first nose, but in fact the whole is as well balanced as the rest of the cellar. Pure white fruit of great distinction, and very long indeed. An impeccable mineral thread throughout, white fruit, concentrated and threatening to turn into a spectacular wine. 13.4% alcohol

Clear pure pale primrose. Punchy, concentrated stuff, this has the chiselled stoniness of Perrières, enough flesh behind, and builds to the back of the palate. Hovering around 13% alcohol, while the fruit comes out riper right at the finish.