Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy

2020 Domaine Anne Gros Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru Le Grand Maupertui, Cote de Nuits, France 750ml

More on the burly side, hence the decision to place last in the tasting line up. The nose has power but in a good way. Just on the darker side of the red black divide, this fills the mouth very impressively, a bit of cherry stone at the finish, and a very long aftertaste. Anne Gros has made a winner here - the best of her grands crus in relation to its appellation. 

2020 Domaine Anne Gros Richebourg Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France 750ml

An even glowing purple colour. The bouquet is exquisite, perfect dark purple fruit, in balance, nothing heated here. Raspberry remains the principal fruit descriptor, both succulent and fine at the same time, a smooth wave across the palate, the oak entirely incorporated, just a point of acidity at the back, some peaches too but only an iota. Almost a touch of youthful bitterness. Properly persistent.

2020 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France 750ml

40% whole bunch vinification 80% new wood, and a yield of just 24 hl/ha. Dark dense purple, this is clearly one of the ripe wines though somewhat saved by the whole bunches which give greater life to the sundried cherry fruit. Very succulent through the second half of the palate, though at the limit of ripeness. The whole bunches pull out the length very nicely and it finishes well. 

2020 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Chambertin Clos-de-Beze Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France 750ml

30% whole bunch vinification, and aged in 100% new wood. Dark intense purple. This has the most interesting nose to date of the grands crus because the least lush. More volume of fruit across the palate, less lush and more juicy, with a precision too. Tannins in balance, with just a hint of phenols at the finish.

2020 Louis Jadot Domaine des Heritiers Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Cote de Beaune, France 750ml

Pale lemon yellow. The bouquet is quite quiet though with promise. This is classic on the palate, rippling stones dusted lightly in lemon. The oak in support is well judged. Perfect acidity to finish – it is there but ripe not trenchant. Fine and quite nuanced finish with some floral notes.

2020 Francois Carillon Puligny-Montrachet, Cote de Beaune, France 750ml

Pale primrose here, very vibrant in colour and bouquet. Complex nose with some tension, a very faint toast in a way which works, and a sense of energy to the fruit – indeed more in fruit than flowers. Swells beautifully, yet retains its characteristic restraint. Really pretty finish, a very sound bet for a village Puligny. Tasted: November 2021.

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