Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy

2020 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France 3.0L

Nine barrels instead of 14 usually (but 5 in 2021). Deep purple with brighter rim. Sturdy stuff on the nose with some black fruit. Mulberry and blackberry, certainly on the lusher side, but this is backed by the familiar Clos Vougeot structure and of course the need to wait ten years. But I would not want this any riper.  

2020 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France 750ml

Nine barrels instead of 14 usually (but 5 in 2021). Deep purple with brighter rim. Sturdy stuff on the nose with some black fruit. Mulberry and blackberry, certainly on the lusher side, but this is backed by the familiar Clos Vougeot structure and of course the need to wait ten years. But I would not want this any riper.  

2020 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Romanee-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France 750ml

Brilliant rich purple, this is more sumptuous than would be classic for Romanée St-Vivant. A complex mix of ripe summer pudding fruits, not quite as ethereal as some years. Is this a touch riper? Charles indicates that the malolactic was later than most, which may be having an impact. Still, there is a good backbone with the requisite fine acidity. 

2020 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Richebourg Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France 750ml

An earlier malolactic than the Romanée St-Vivant makes this easier to taste. Glowing purple. Heady bouquet speaking louder than Romanée St-Vivant. Even so it is a big and backward boy. But then what a weight of fruit! This is really magnificent. Cloaked in a luscious but not lush nobility with the perfect, fine tannin-plus-acidity structure behind. Very lively, a Richebourg with exquisite balance. 

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