Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy

2021 Domaine Dujac Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France 750ml

A fine glowing purple. Bright mid purple, with a very lively nose, very obviously whole bunch. Actually, a really gorgeous nose, more floral in the top notes but a wealth of come-hither fruit below. A wonderful wealth of fruit right across the palate. Later picking paid off. This is a delight but the Clos de la Roche has significantly more intensity Drink from 2030-2038

2021 Domaine Michel Bouzereau et Fils Les Charmes Dessus, Meursault Premier Cru, France 750ml

Mid yellow. Quite an interesting complex nose, though still at a backward stage. A little bit of wood showing. The wines will stay in barrel until December at least, for probable bottling around Easter, so there is time for this to develop. A light butteriness from the barrel with a saline note afterwards. Some promise but early days yet.

2021 Domaine Bart Chambertin Clos-de-Beze Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France 750ml

Same as Bonnes Mares with 40% new wood, 20% whole bunch vinification and 20% stems added back. This vineyard has a higher pH, so Pierre likes to keep the temperature up and punch down strongly at the back end to give the tension it doesn’t have naturally. Robust full mid purple. Burst of fruit up front, raspberry plus a bit of bilberry, there is more structure right at the back, a crunch in the tannins, but is this perhaps at the expense of the natural flow of Clos de Bèze? The fruit quality is certainly fine and think I shall be tasting this in the car on my way home. 

2021 Domaine Bart Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France 750ml

40% new wood, 20% whole bunch vinification and 20% stems added back. A succulent full and charming bouquet with the robust but androgynous fruit of Bonnes Mares. Partly a burst of full lush floral character, partly the more savoury side of Morey. A fine full mouthful behind, quite easy to read but certainly delicious. The structure is there behind the fruit. Very pleasing finish 

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