Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy

2021 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Musigny Blanc Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France 750ml

The white Musigny was racked just before the harvest, now back in barrel. Clear pale colour even with a faint green reflection. Rather a beautiful gently perfumed nose, flinty yet fine, this year the Musigny Blanc does seem like grand cru quality. A little lemongrass and then a crystalline white fruit. Really promising. Drink from 2028-2035

2021 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Musigny Grand Cru 'Cuvee Vieilles Vignes', Cote de Nuits, France 750ml

Three tanks were made, in order of picking, then assembled as there is no terroir logic to them, though this has changed for 2022. A fine bright and reasonably deep purple. Classy with just a touch of pepper. Less immediately compelling that some previous vintages, but it is growing steadily in the glass. There is a huge volume of red and black fruit intertwined with a fresh mineral streak running through the middle, supplying excellent length to complete the job. Splendid stuff! A firmer finish but there is plenty of time for that to resolve. Drink from 2030-2040.

2021 Domaine de L'Arlot Clos des Forets Saint-Georges, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru, France 750ml

Dense red to crimson. The bouquet is a little more closed than Les Suchots, but with a suggestion of a fair intensity of fruit to follow. Prettily floral, cherry and raspberry too, this is rather stylish, still with a little biscuit note from the barrel, like many of these wines in their youth. Without being in the style of the blockbuster vintages, there is still good energy here for the future. Drink from 2027-2033.

2021 Domaine de L'Arlot Romanee-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France 750ml

A glowing brisk crimson colour. The bouquet is where it belongs, at the heart of Vosne-Romanée. Still needs a little teasing out though. Good energy at the front of the palate, a useful thread of acidity, the oak lends a light char, then the fruit returns to sweep through to the finish. The acidity is just right, tannins are refined. Fresh crunchy red berry fruit to finish. Drink from 2029-2036.

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