Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy

Mid lemon and very toasty on the nose. So far it seems less exciting than the Genevrières. Then the palate delivers a plump intensity (with all the freshness of the vintage) thus far unseen. Lime cordial to finish once more, and though it has the intensity, I might just give Genevrières the nod on persistence.

Picked early with the Bouchères. If you wait you gain sugar and lose acid very quickly in this vineyard. . Little stones keep the heat. Full lemon yellow. The bouquet is softer and riper, possibly more lactic. This is pretty punchy in the middle of the palate, but has retained its vivacity. However, you can see that to pick any later would have been a mistake.

Clean pure yellow. The bouquet is over and above the Charmes. Juniper and verbena, depth and poise, concentration without heaviness. Then a pure white fruit with appropriate flesh. Not just intensity on the palate but depth of flavour as well. It is true that they are beautifully placed with their large plot of Genevrières Dessus, but even so, chapeau! Oak is present but perfectly integrated. Given the summer, I never imagined we would be able to achieve this freshness, this detail! 

Glowing full lemon colour. There is a little more barrel toast and butter here, reflecting 30% new wood instead of 25%, tried special Damy barrels which he doesn’t really like, what a nose though, a glorious intensity shines through, there is even more nobility, the lime is restrained behind the white apple and pear fruit, the waves of flavour even more impressive. Will adapt fining to manage that nose. Wonderful aftertaste, the best yet in a wonderful range.

93-96pts Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy: "Two new barrels in five, as yet unracked, around 40% whole bunch. Very dark purple colour, the fruit is less fresh here, slightly cooked cherry on the nose, a little better on the palate though with a slight volatile behind. This is hard to gauge but certainly at this stage the Bonnes Mares looks much the better bet. If this cleans up before bottling, then the impressive weight of fruit should merit a higher rating. Tasted: November 2021."

The first to be picked, all destemmed. 2 new barrels in 8. Two punches down. Intense dark purple with rich fruit on the nose. The tannins are pretty firm, the nose is really juicy, there is just a point of acidity, the fruit is very clean in its sunny style. Persistent.

A new cuvée this year to replace the Grèves and Vignes Franches grapes where agreement with the owner could not be reached. Medium deep purple, slight spritz and fermentation aromas on the nose make the bouquet hard to judge – but this has not yet been racked. Medium deep purple, plump and gorgeous ripe raspberry fruit, just the right structure behind, some orange peel, very pretty and certainly long.

Three barrels have been made out of 6 ouvrées from old millerand vines, some now pulled out. To bottle in March. Full bright mid yellow. Full and a bit lactic but there is a significant column of fruit behind and a touch of toast too. Have to go and search this one out. Good weight, juicy, firm acidity as well, all in different parts, will be impressive I think when it all comes together.

A fresher paler colour than the straight Meursault. The nose builds very well, this is stylish fine boned and very intense with a little bit of reduction tightening up the finish. Very good potential here, but still in a painfully youthful stage.