The forthcoming release of Doyard's NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Vendémiaire (2015 base), and it's a touch richer and more gourmand than its 2014-base counterpart. Mingling aromas of peach, white flowers, green apple, nutmeg and toasted almonds, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with a vinous profile, lively acids and fine length on the finish.
A visit to this venerable Vertus domaine is invariably one of the highlights of my time in Champagne, and my late 2020 tasting was no exception. Blessed with 10 hectares of prime holdings in Versus, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, Avize, Cramant and Aÿ, their vines—some of which are cordon-pruned and all of which are farmed without herbicides or pesticides—produce intensely concentrated grapes that are selectively pressed and vinified in wood. Deep, concentrated and characterful, everything that bears the Doyard label is well worth serious attention, and these new releases are especially impressive. Indeed, given the quality to be found at this address—and the long track record—the wines deserve to be even better known. William Kelley