2021 Joseph & Philippe Roty Charmes-Chambertin Tres Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France 750ml

Unfurling in the glass with aromas of cherries, wild berries, licorice, orange zest, vine smoke, incense and rose petals, the 2021 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru Très Vieilles Vignes is full-bodied, deep and layered, its velvety attack segueing into a rich, succulent mid-palate that entirely conceals its powdery structuring tannins. Long and perfumed, it entirely transcends the perceived limitations of the vintage, and Burgundy purists will adore it. Tasting with affable eleventh-generation vigneron Pierre-Jean Roty—who took the helm at this discrete family-owned domaine following his brother's untimely passing in 2015—is an annual pleasure that I always eagerly anticipate. This year, it was the turn of the 2021s, wines that have nothing to fear from a comparison with other sunnier, drier recent years, exuding charm and perfume that will delight Burgundy purists. Roty fans will be familiar with the approach at this address: assiduously but only shallowly cultivated soils, a high proportion of old vines, minimal use of chemical treatments, destemmed grapes fermented in concrete tanks, and élevage in generous percentages of smoky new oak for 15-16 months. My sense is that today's wines are suppler than the Roty wines of yesteryear. They're less forbidding in their youth than their formidable reputation might suggest—even the grands crus boast such generosity of fruit that their rich structuring tannins are frequently concealed. But they develop just as gracefully as ever. (WK)