2007 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Cote de Beaune, France 750ml

The Colin 2007 Batard-Montrachet -- from centrally-located 50 year old vines – positively crawls up the nostrils in its intense amalgam of pit fruit distillate; smoky black tea; lemon and grapefruit; and heliotrope. Citrus traverses the palate like an electric current, enlivening a dense concentrate of lightly caramelized peach, nut paste, and chalk, that is almost custard-like in texture. This finishes with tremendous force and grip. Like the corresponding Corton-Charlemagne, I have the feeling that it could exhibit something of a split personality on any given day in its youth. Today, all cylinders are certainly firing – and nearly in sync – even if the result is more formidable than loveable. Give this a few years – if you are lucky enough to acquire some bottles – and I would not be surprised to see it reward a decade of attention. (DS)