Lime, grapefruit, green tea, lemon oil, and chalk dust on the nose mark Colin’s 2006 Chevalier-Montrachet as inhabiting a much cooler and more refreshing realm than his corresponding Batard. Rather than enveloping richness, this delivers a long-lined, refined, subtly yet penetratingly insistent personality. Having not finished its malo-lactic transformation until well after the 2007 harvest, this Chevalier was correspondingly in need of time when I tasted it; speaking of which, it will probably have a felicitous, ten year future. (DS)
