2005 Joseph & Philippe Roty Charmes-Chambertin Tres Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France 750ml

From vines said to have been planted in the 1880s, the Roty 2005 Charmes Chambertin Tres Vieilles Vignes announces its distinction a foot away from the glass, with uncanny intensity and clarity of black fruit essences, along with ineffable mineral and animal suggestions. Tactile cinnamon spiciness, bitter-sweet herbs, and black cherry and black raspberry concentrate (fresh, yet with liqueur-like intensity, sweetness and viscosity) saturate the palate, and a dark and rising tide of mineral and carnal flavors meets the fruit and spice in a thunderous finish. There is mystery aplenty here, with the sex appeal well beneath the surface. (DS)