1999 Chateau L'Eglise-Clinet, Pomerol, France 750ml

Denis Durantou explained that analytically, the Château l'Eglise-Clinet 1999 is exactly the same as the 1998, although it is completely different in taste. He also said that it was the last vintage that he had to chaptalize (a little). Poured from magnum, it is clearly more mild-mannered on the nose than the preceding vintage, but still extremely well defined with blackberry and briary scents, a hint of black truffle and incense following later. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly grainy tannin. The acidity here is well judged, not unlike a superior and more substantial version of the 1997, with commendable precision on the truffle-tinged finish. This can be broached now, but unlike the 1997, this has another decade or more of drinking pleasure to give. (NM)