Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy

Mostly Clos de la Jacquelotte but with some more fruit outside the Clos. They used to sell the extra part, but now prefer to keep it. Pale lemon colour, with a pleasing bouquet, not quite the volume of fruit of Garenne on the nose, but more on the palate where fruit rather than flesh drives the wine. Good length, well made.

7 hl/ha. A paler fresher colour with a magical mineral intensity. A little touch of coconut. There is a dancing quality about this wine, without sacrificing intensity. Certainly not! Once in this mouth there is a really intense core of pure white fruit with a mineral energy behind. Superb stuff! 

A fine clear lemon yellow. Here the fruit and the oak are absolutely intertwined on the nose. A significant volume of fruit is suggested, as well as undeniable class. There is a heady mix here, but it works really well together there is almost a coating of a waxy velvet, and a very long finish. Ripe apples, maybe some white peaches, and the usual fresh citrus note to keep the finish fresh.

Three barrels! A fresh mid lemon and lime colour. More floral elegance here à la Puligny. Still ripe and sensual behind, but this is more typical perhaps of a 2020. A touch of bacon fat alongside the white fruit, plenty of energy, good acidity, the finish still fine if less compelling than the Meursault. Suggestion of honeysuckle.

A glowing lemon colour with lime notes. Lickable stones immediately appear on the nose, this feels like Genevrières-plus but not on steroids. Immense waves of flavour yet the austere tension is more in play than a huge volume of fruit – it will take years for all that to emerge. So much resides at the back of the palate but the volume will only come later. Fractional youthful bitterness. Magnums only.

A pale colour with a slight green tint. The nose is more complex than the Bourgogne without suggesting much greater power. Here it is the elegance which counts, fresh white fruit with fines herbes. More lemon than lime in its citrus notes. Medium plus length

Rather a severe nose, a form of reduction, possibly allied to sulphur. This soon cleans up. I asked for a second pour of this wine, and it was totally clean. This is more reserved with a depth of fruit that impresses, with also good variation, complexity, all white fruit, doesn’t have any specific citrus mote, A little barrel toast complements rather than interferes. Impressive length.

Clear pale lemon yellow. The bouquet is more reserved than the Pucelles, with an easy-going white fruit across the piece. Medium depth at first then both broadens and deepens on the palate, with a wealth of fruit, and a caressing softer style on the palate yet with a good natural acidity running all the way through. Graceful long finish. 

An elegant lemon and lime colour. The nose is very precise, a masterpiece of elegance, not giving too much up front. The oak is entirely integrated. A little bit of fresh fennel, otherwise pure white fruit. Then the concentration builds to the back, a slight youthful bitterness, all in all a discreet wine with enormous power to build subsequently.

Lemon in colour with a light green reflection. The Chevalier is clearly stricter than the two Bâtards. Chiselled, firm, not yet flamboyant, pure white fruit as ever, a little lime at the finish mixed into the flesh – indeed rather broader at the finish than expected. A little biscuity note too. The Chevalier is less in place today than the other Grands Crus but may well settle down to justify its place in the hierarchy.