Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Paje comes across as a bit simple in this vintage. It shows good fleshiness and lovely inner sweetness in a fairly approachable style. I don’t see the pedigree of the finest 2007 Riservas here. In exchange, though, readers will find a highly attractive, forward Barbaresco that will drink well right out of the gate.  (AG)

The 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello comes across as cool, inward and reticent. In other words, very Ovello. It is one of the most complete of these 2007s, as the freshness of the site works to counter some of the more extroverted qualities of the year. The Ovello possesses stunning depth in its fruit, expressive inner perfume and firm yet refined tannins that provide the backdrop for all of the elements to come together beautifully in the glass. The Ovello seems to combine the best qualities of the Montestefano and Montefico.

The 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Rabaja is a big, dark wine loaded with dark fruit, menthol, tar, flowers, mint, rosemary and an array of balsamic notes that develop in the glass. The Rabaja possesses stunning depth to match its muscular tannins. It is a dazzling wine endowed with tons of inner perfume and sheer personality as it saturates the palate from start to finish. Today, the Rabaja comes across as huge and almost Barolo like, but it has plenty of Rabaja character.

The 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Pora is the revelation among the 2007s. Pora is one of the warmer microclimates in Barbaresco owing to its proximity to the Tanaro River. In most vintages Pora is a fairly open wine. The 2007 captures the very best qualities of this site in a radiant, deep expression of fruit. The wine literally covers every inch of the palate as it fleshes out in the glass. The Pora will never be one of the most complex wines here, but today it is immensely enjoyable, not to mention that the 2007 is one of the very finest Poras in recent memory.

The 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is a huge wine. In some ways it reminds me of the 2004 because of its silkiness, but the 2007 is a richer wine with more weight, glycerin and body. Sweet cherries, flowers, hard candy and spices are woven together beautifully through to the plush, enveloping finish. Despite the power and richness there is plenty of Asili character in the glass. (AG)

The 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Muncagotta is the most forward of the 2007 Riservas. Sweet tobacco, leather, dried flowers and dark cherries are some of the notes that emerge from the glass. The Muncagotta comes across as rather feminine, with less of the radiance and lushness of the best wines of the year. The aromas and flavors are already a bit advanced, which isn’t terribly surprising considering the site and year. Ideally the Muncagotta is best enjoyed sooner rather than later.

The 2001 Darmagi is impressive. Darmagi is Gaja’s most vintage sensitive red, but the 2001 is truly superb. Dark cherries, plums, bell peppers, sweet herbs and licorice are nicely layered in this vibrant, powerful Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2001 Darmagi brings together the characteristics of cool-climate Cabernet and an extroverted personality that are very nicely balanced. The 2001 is still very much on the young side, although it can be enjoyed today. I am amazed at how well the 2001 has developed over the years. (AG)

The Graham 1945 Vintage Port is a majestic thing. This example was bottled by W. & J. Graham & Co. in Oporto in 1947. It has a clear, almost lucid deep tawny colour. The nose is elegant, lace-like, refined with clove and spice box scents, dried blood with a subtle ferrous note. It is very delineated and poised. The palate is beautifully balanced with nigh perfect acidity, almost Burgundian in texture, poised with notes of raspberry preserve, dried apricot, a slight warmth of alcohol and bay leaf on the long sustained finish.

A hot, dry summer resulted in a tiny production of under 10,000 cases of 2003 Ducru Beaucaillou from yields of 35 hectoliters per hectare. This beauty boasts a deep plum/ruby/purple color with a touch of lightening at the edge. Aromas of licorice, creme de cassis, incense and spring flowers are followed by a full-bodied, opulent wine with loads of fruit and glycerin as well as a plush texture. It is just entering its plateau of maturity where it should remain for another 10-15 years.

Medium to deep garnet colored, the 2009 Petrus gives up glorious scents of preserved plums, redcurrant jelly, dried rose petals, blackberry compote and mulberries with touches of licorice, Chinese five spice and fragrant earth. Full, rich, plushly textured and oh-so-decadent, it reveals layer upon layer of spice box, black fruit and ferrous notions, finishing long and fragrant.