Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The Masseto 2017 Masseto puts on another exhilarating, knock-out performance for the third year in a row. The Masseto vineyard is a triangular-shaped plot tucked in at the back of the same property that houses the Ornellaia vineyards and winery. This special site is located at the base of the mountains that rise gently from the Tyrrhenian Sea, with the picturesque silhouette of the Castiglioncello castle at the top. The vines are planted at an altitude of 80 to 100 meters above sea level in blue clay soils that are unique to Bolgheri.

Fontodi's 2013 Chianti Classico is a textbook expression from the appellation. The wine represents a pure expression of Sangiovese that sees six months in large oak casks and an additional 18 months in neutral barrique. Thanks to that non-intrusive aging regime, the wine shows enormous clarity and purity. Sangiovese is front and center. Wild berry, blue flower and tangy spice abound. (ML)

This is a superb set of releases and I can’t recommend the wines highly enough. The 2004 Testamatta (85% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo), Graetz’s top red, presents gorgeous aromatics and deeply expressive layers of sweet dark fruit in a highly individualistic display of elegance, with superb length and fine tannins on the finish. The new oak tannins are still very much present and this wine is in need of some bottle age, but it has all the ingredients of a truly special wine. (AG)

The 2008 Barbera d’Alba Cascina Francia is a classic Conterno Barbera. Layers of dark, brooding fruit come forth gradually, along with exotic scents of new leather, licorice, tar and soy that add complexity. This is a decidedly reserved, mineral-driven Barbera that will appeal most to readers who appreciate the focused side of Barbera as opposed to more opulent vintages such as 2007 where the fruit is decidedly forward. The Cascina Francia shows greater richness and density than the Ceretta, suggesting the direction that wine is likely to take in coming years. (AG)

A classic California Chardonnay, the 2010 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard bursts from the palate with honey, nectarine, butterscotch, orange blossoms and flowers. Rich, plush and totally inviting, David Ramey’s Hudson is a great expression of this famous Carneros site. Beautiful, vivid and constantly changing in the glass, the 2010 is wonderfully alive and classy throughout. (AG)

“This wine was too much—too much like a caricature for me,” winemaker Michael Silacci confessed to me while tasting the 2015 Opus One together again recently. “So, when we took it out of barrel to prepare for bottling we added a few more components.” Medium to deep garnet-purple color, it bursts from the glass with beautiful violets, lavender, rose hip tea and chocolate-covered cherries scents over a core of crushed blackberries, black cherries, cassis and iron ore.

Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2017 Petrus comes galloping out of the glass with bold, expressive notions of Black Forest cake, blueberry preserves and Christmas pudding with nuances of molten chocolate, Chinese five spice, candied violets, licorice and kirsch plus wafts of roses and cinnamon stick. Full-bodied, rich, spicy and fantastically concentrated, the palate has compelling freshness and a solid base of wonderfully ripe, velvety tannins, finishing very long and opulent. The aromatics at this youthful stage are atypical for Petrus and quite stunning—this 2017 is a bombshell!

The 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Georges III gives a deep garnet-purple color and slightly shy nose to begin, soon opening out to a multilayered bouquet of forest floor, dusty earth and crushed rock notions over a core of blackberry preserves, baked plums and chocolate-covered cherries with wafts of bay leaves and menthol. The elegant, medium to full-bodied palate struts fantastic poise even at this youthful stage, with firm, exquisitely fine, pixelated tannins, lovely freshness and incredible length that reveals great depth. (LPB)

The 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is another fabulous wine. It is completely different than the Montefico, even though the vineyards are literally next to each other. The Montestefano shows quite a bit more fruit than the Montefico, with silky, polished tannins that convey an impression of sensual elegance. Crushed flowers, mint, licorice and dark red cherries are some of the notes that wrap around the deep finish. This is a fabulous Montestefano. (AG)

The 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Montefico is all about energy and sheer power. The Montefico is quite virile, even in this vintage, with a certain austerity in the tannin that will require time in bottle to soften. Dark red fruit, leather, anise and spices are some of the notes that wrap around the insistent, pointed finish. There is plenty of nuance here, but not the early appeal of the year. This is a great showing, but readers will need to be patient. (AG)