Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 2017 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru is the most brooding of Duroché's wines, wafting from the glass with a rich bouquet of mulberries, plums and wild berries, mingled with smoked meats, incense, spices and rich soil tones. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with a rich and layered core, succulent acids and a long, intensely sapid finish.

The 2017 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru is also showing superbly from bottle, unfurling to reveal scents of rose petals, cherries, raspberries, spices, licorice and forest floor. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny-textured and elegant, with a lively spine of acidity, a deep core and a penetrating, sapid finish. While this will be approachable young, it will reward patience.(WK)

The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru displays notes of ripe cherries, plums and pomegranate, framed by delicate top notes of warm spices and peonies. Medium to full-bodied, rich and layered on the palate, it's fleshy and enveloping, with fine depth at the core, succulent acids and a perfumed finish.(WK)

Bottled in January 2019, the 2016 Insignia is a blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 1% Malbec, aged for 24 months in 100% new French oak barrels. Deep garnet-purple colored, the nose is a little reticent to begin, needing a fair bit of coaxing to reveal beautifully beguiling notions of wild blueberries, warm blackberries, black currant cordial, cloves and cedar chest with nuances of camphor, yeast extract, charcuterie and candied violets.

The 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is deep, dense and incredibly primary. Although the wine clearly possesses remarkable stuffing, there is very little tertiary development here. With air, suggestions of menthol, pine, spices and licorice gradually emerge, but this remains a wine in need of serious bottle age. Lingering notes of sweetness resonate on the long finish. This austere, but beautiful Barbaresco is destined to develop beautifully in bottle and should offer glorious drinking down the road. (AG)

The 2004 Brut Cristal has put on quite a bit of weight since I first tasted it earlier this year. It is a powerful, structured Cristal layered with considerable fruit. Chardonnay seems to play the leading role in 2004, at least today. Cristal is often accessible young, but that is far from the case here. This is a serious, painfully young Cristal that will require considerable patience. Readers who are willing to spend some time with the wine today will find a super-impressive, complete Cristal. (AG)

The 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Plateaux is showing beautifully, bursting from the glass with an inviting bouquet of blackberries, red berries, exotic spices, orange rind and a deft framing of toasty new oak. Medium to full-bodied, supple and textural, this is a charming, enveloping Nuits, its fleshy core of fruit framed by melting tannins and succulent acids, concluding with a penetrating and sapid finish. It's already drinking well. (WK)

Aromas of orange rind, green apples and white flowers introduce the 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre, a medium to full-bodied wine that's quite powerful and concentrated, with a fleshy core of fruit but lively balancing acids. (WK)

Younger and slightly fresher than the Geyserville, yet not quite as seamless or elegant, the 1995 Lytton Springs gives up full-bodied notes of plums, blackberries, smoked herbs and pepper, with more meatiness and spice developing with time in the glass.

  (JD)