Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 2002 Brut Cuvée Nicolas François was disgorged in January 2015 with four grams per liter dosage, and it's showing superbly, wafting from the glass with a complex bouquet that mingles confit citrus, peach and dried papaya with nuances of iodine, brioche and honeycomb. On the palate, it's full-bodied, broad and vinous, with a rich and layered core that's underpinned by serious structure and tension, concluding with a long and precise finish. This is one of the finest wines Billecart has released in the last decade, and it is well worth seeking out. (WK)

Readers will note that the score range I've provided for Chave's 2020 Hermitage is much broader than typical. That's because my ratings for the numerous barrel samples tasted varied considerably, with one lot scoring as low as (91 - 93), while others were near-perfect (98 - 100). I should be able to provide a more precise picture following my next visit, but it was clear to me that—even more than usual—much will depend on Jean-Louis's skills at selection and blending.

Back in 2014, Salon's president Didier Depond was quoted in the press as saying that “since 2008, there has been no genuinely great vintage in Champagne" and that a 2012 from Salon wouldn't be released. But the just-released 2012 Brut Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil shows that he had good reason to change his mind, as to my palate this is, after the 2008, the finest Salon produced this millennium.

Medium garnet colored, the 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon Kayli Morgan Vineyard leaps from the glass with bold notes of crushed black cherries with raspberry sparks over a core of blackcurrant cordial, chocolate box, licorice and Chinese five spice with hints of iron ore and tilled black soil. Full-bodied, rich and super concentrated, the palate delivers layer upon layer of red and black fruit preserves flavors, framed by lovely finely grained tannins and great freshness, finishing long and minerally. (ML)

A timely classic for patient readers with cold cellars, the 2019 Langoa Barton is performing beautifully in bottle, unwinding in the glass with a rich bouquet of cassis, plums, cigar wrapper, pencil shavings and loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, deep and elegantly muscular, its concentrated core of fruit is framed by lively acids and ripe, powdery tannins that assert themselves on the youthfully firm finish. Forget it for a decade and reap the rewards for the following four. William Kelley

Disgorged in February 2021, Aubry's 2014 Brut Ivoire et Ebene is lovely, exhibiting a pretty bouquet of citrus oil, white flowers, freshly baked bread and crisp green orchard fruit, followed by a medium to full-bodied, elegantly fleshy palate that's girdled by racy acids and complemented by a firm, chalky finish. Still a little reserved after its comparatively recent disgorgement, it will show even better with a few years on cork. (WK)

Disgorged in March 2020, Vilmart's 2013 Brut Emotion wafts from the glass with aromas of pear, tangerine, red berries and hazelnuts. Medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, it's concentrated and structured, with chalky extract, racy acids and a pillowy mousse. If anything, this is more reserved than its 2013 counterpart, and it will reward some bottle age. (WK)

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is silky, smooth and very expressive. The whole theme of the 2017 vintage sees a tug-of-war between power and elegance. In many cases, power wins in 2017 and elegance is sidelined. Not here. Made with organic fruit, this is a delicate and graceful expression of Sangiovese with bright red fruit, cassis, lilac, earth and lavender essence. With fruit from a cool 420 meters in elevation, this is one of the standout bottles of the vintage. (ML)