Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

One of the stars of the Médoc and a wine likely to equal or surpass its 2019 and 2016 counterparts, the 2022 Léoville Barton unwinds in the glass with deep aromas of cassis, pencil shavings, spices and tobacco leaf, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and layered palate that's vibrant, pure and seamless, with beautifully classy tannins and a long, penetrating finish.

One of the stars of the vintage is the striking 2022 Cheval Blanc, a blend of 53% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Franc and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon that bursts from the glass with aromas of mulberries, cherries and wild berries mingled with mint, orange zest, pencil lead, vine smoke and exotic spices. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and layered, it's rich and gourmand, with beautifully refined tannins, lively acids and a long, saline, pungently perfumed finish. Harvest began on 29 August, with all the Merlot picked before the month was out, and the result is a wine that is as vibrant as it is lavish.

The first vintage produced in the estate's new winery, which more than doubled the number of vats, permitting sub-plot by sub-plot vinification, the brilliant 2022 Langoa Barton offers up aromas of dark berries, cassis, violets and cigar wrapper, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and fleshy palate endowed with terrific depth and tension. Polished and penetrating, it should match or even surpass the 2019 and 2016 vintages, and it is sure to be one of the more intelligent purchases of the en primeur campaign. (WK)

The 2017 La Tâche Grand Cru soars from the glass with a captivating and beautifully integrated bouquet of exotic spices, rose petals, raspberries, cherries and blood orange mingled with notions of cinnamon and coniferous forest floor. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, with a deep and tightly coiled core that marks it out as the most muscular wine in the cellar, displaying considerable concentration and largely concealed structure.

One of the wines of the vintage is the 2020 La Conseillante, a blend of 86% Merlot and 14% Cabernet Franc that wafts from the glass with inviting aromas of raspberries, red cherries and mulberries mingled with exotic spices, violets and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and vibrant, it's a beautifully elegant, sensual wine with a deep core of fruit framed by powdery tannins, concluding with a long, extravagantly floral finish. This is a Pomerol of striking purity and sophistication.

A blend of 50% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Franc and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2020 Canon la Gaffelière offers up inviting aromas of dark berries, plums, burning embers, rose petals, incense and bay leaf. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and layered, it's suave and perfumed, with melting, powdery tannins and a vibrant core of fruit. As ever, the elevated percentage of Cabernet Franc lends it a singular and compelling style.

There are two barrels of the 2017 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru (Maison Louis Jadot), a dramatic wine that bursts from the glass with aromas of ripe yellow orchard fruit, mandarin, spices and dried white flowers. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ripe and textural, with a fleshy, open-knit profile and a saline finish.  (WK).

Broad and sexy, with supple tannin, the 2001 offers beguiling notes of toast, black currant liqueur, violets, and licorice in a seductive, opulent, medium to full-bodied, accessible style. It may deserve another point or two for pure pleasure. Proprietor Eric Albada Jelgersma is doing a splendid job rebuilding this estate and producing higher and higher quality wines. The finest Du Tertre in many years was the 2000, and the 2001 is close behind it in quality.

The pale to medium lemon-gold colored 2005 d'Yquem opens with a provocative, mineral and earth-tinged nose of chalk dust, wet pebbles and dried wild mushrooms over a core of warm apricots, green mango, honeyed toast, ginger and pink grapefruit plus wafts of honeycomb, orange blossoms and saffron. The palate confirms the wine is still a little closed and shut down, offering achingly gorgeous glimpses at the tightly wound, intricate layers structured with a racy acid line and wonderfully creamy texture, finishing incredibly long and perfumed.

Tasted both at the château and then blind at Farr Vintners' tasting, the 2006 Château Larcis Ducasse is maturing nicely, far better than the Beauséjour Duffau Lagarrosse that I tasted side by side. It has plenty of ripe black cherry, strawberry pastille and creme de cassis on the nose, quite opulent for the vintage and well defined. The palate is medium bodied with fine tannin cloaked in ripe blackberry and blueberry fruit; underlying all of this is a seam of cold stone that imparts freshness and satisfying tension on the finish.