Producer note: The soft-spoken Dominique Gallois runs this small 3.5 ha domaine and proudly noted that 2020 represented his 31st vintage given that 1989 was his first. Gallois briefly noted that 2020, much like 2019, was “relatively easy to manage from a viticultural standpoint though the extreme drought did have me very concerned. We picked from the 28th to the 31st of August and there was no sorting of import save for some sunburned fruit. The good news was that the fruit was ripe, clean and balanced but the bad news was that, once again, there wasn’t much of it as yields were off some 60%! We actually had normal number of berries but there was just no juice in them so in the end my average yield was barely 19 hl/ha. Potential alcohols were on the higher side without being too much as they ranged from 13.5 to 13.8%. overall, I really like this vintage and between 2019 and 2020, it’s honestly hard to choose as both are really pretty good.” Gallois is being modest as he’s right, both vintages are terrific, and I would add that his 2018s are also excellent. In addition to reviewing three 19’s in bottle, I had the chance to retaste two slightly older vintages and I have included those reviews below. Gallois also noted that, like a number of domaines in Burgundy, they have begun using corks that are guaranteed against TCA (cork taint).
Tasting note: 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin “Combe Aux Moines”: (from a .5 ha parcel of 45+ year old vines). This is the first wine to exhibit any appreciable reduction and it’s enough to overshadow the underlying fruit at present. More interesting are the intense and super-sleek broad-shouldered flavors that exhibit excellent precision on the powerful, tautly muscular and strikingly long finale. This is very impressive but also a wine that is very much constituted for the long haul. Patience advised. (92-94)/2035+
