2019 Domaine Robert Groffier Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru 750ml

100% new wood 100% whole bunch. Actually, the top few centimetres are destemmed for health reasons, as it is better to have liquid rather than solids at the top of the vat. Rich imperial purple, almost black centre with a lighter rim. Complex nose, some briarwood, some mandarin, something of everything. Magical intensity more on red fruit, then some chocolate behind, nothing heated, no question about the balance, a fine fresh finish and superbly persistent. Tasted: November 2020.

The 2019 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru is all about one-hundreds: age of vine, percentage of new oak and whole bunches. It has an incredibly intense and powerful bouquet with layers of blackberry, sage, sous-bois and charcoal. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and sufficient fruit to easily soak up the new wood. Fresh and quite citrus-like, it is beautifully proportioned on the finish with a lingering hint of pepperiness on the aftertaste. This is an outstanding Clos-de-Bèze, though it will require several years in bottle. (NM)