2019 Chateau Montrose, Saint-Estephe, France 375ml

Oh this is good, it steals up on you with real depth of flavour, stately and concentrated in a way that reminds me of a 1996 or a 2016. Extremely measured, very clear that this is going to age effortlessly, it is extremely discreet and yet packed with persistent flavours. A masterclass in the flavours and aromatics that you expect in a great Médoc wine - slate, crushed stones, savoury blackcurrant, liquorice, hints of smoke and cold ash. After five minutes in the glass the sweeter berry fruit comes out, and the whole thing is sappy and mouthwatering, and makes you smile.

The 2019 Montrose was bottled in July 2021, and though I did not taste it en primeur, I did sample it just prior to bottling and then after, in September 2021. It was picked from September 19 to October 8, with a similar percentage of Merlot to the 2009 (30% compared to around 25% due to the ripeness). At 14.4% alcohol, it has lower alcohol than the 2018 (14.8%). The Merlot guides the nose, which is a little more flamboyant than usual for Montrose, and very pure, offering small black cherries, black currant, wild mint and just a hint of camphor. The palate is medium-bodied, spicy and vibrant, with a silky-smooth texture and a touch of peppercorn on the entry. There is wonderful tension throughout this Montrose, and gentle grip on the finish. Will this vintage be more approachable than the 2018?