The 2017 Meursault Les Casses-Têtes is superb, unwinding in the glass with notes of lemon oil, blanched almonds, tart pear and crisp peach. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, with more flesh and amplitude than the domaine's regular Meursault but similar tension and cut, concluding with a stony finish. This is a terrific bottling of Meursault that flies decidedly under the radar, so it's well worth seeking out. 91-93
One of my favorite insider domaines in Burgundy, Domaine Jean et Gilles Lafouge produces a range of impressively consistent and compelling wines from some 10 hectares spread across the appellations of Auxey-Duresses, Meursault and Pommard. Old vines, cultivated soils and classical winemaking are the rudiments of Gilles Lafouge's recipe for success. The clean and organized cuverie and cellar immediately communicate a sense of dedication and attention to detail that comes across just as strongly in the glass. This estate is a source of superb Meursault and Pommard, but don't neglect the range of Auxey-Duresses red and white, wines that demonstrate what these terroirs can deliver when given the same treatment as more glamorous appellations. That these wines age beautifully, I can personally testify, having enjoyed a lovely 1969 Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru La Chapelle last summer—an unexpected but happy encounter on a local wine list. William Kelley, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
