2015 Doyard Clos de l'Abbaye Premier Cru Extra Brut 750ml

Disgorged in January 2021 with two grams per liter dosage, the 2015 Extra-Brut Premier Cru Clos de l'Abbaye has turned out brilliantly. Wafting from the glass with aromas of citrus oil, warm bread and honeycomb that are still a little reserved after its recent disgorgement, this is a full-bodied, layered and concentrated Champagne that's vinous and textural, displaying notable depth and mid-palate amplitude that's framed by lively acids and an enlivening pinpoint mousse, concluding with a long resonant finish. As I've written before, this cuvée derives from a walled 0.4-hectare plot of 60-year-old cordon-pruned vines just behind the winery in Vertus, and only the first and second "serres" of the press are used. William Kelley