2004 Chateau Ausone, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, France 1.5L

One of the vintage's most compelling wines (what's new about that?), Alain Vauthier's beloved 2004 Ausone has closed down considerably since I tasted it out of barrel, but it remains among the most concentrated wines of the vintage. Furthermore, along with Petrus, it will probably be the longest-lived. A dense purple color is accompanied by a celestial perfume of blue and black fruits, wet stones, flowers, and incense. On the palate, the wine exhibits exceptional power and concentration, but this historic terroir has also provided a surreal lightness to the wine's impression. Beautiful flavors, sensational depth, and abundant structure suggest this 2004 will not be close to full maturity for 8-10 years. It should last for four decades.

A very deep purple colour. The nose needs some coaxing. It is more delicate than usual, not as precocious than the 2003. The palate is more about poise than power - very fine acidity. Robust tannins, more masculine than in previous years. Huge grip though, its concentration creeps up on you and makes its presence felt on the persistent finish. Very broody at the moment. Perhaps missing that profundity of the 2000 or 2003, yet it has that brilliant poise that makes Ausone so special. A return to the more classic style definitely. It may need time to come around though, perhaps 5 to 6 years. Tasted April 2005.

One of the vintage's most compelling wines (what's new about that?), Alain Vauthier's beloved 2004 Ausone has closed down considerably since I tasted it out of barrel, but it remains among the most concentrated wines of the vintage. Furthermore, along with Petrus, it will probably be the longest-lived. A dense purple color is accompanied by a celestial perfume of blue and black fruits, wet stones, flowers, and incense. On the palate, the wine exhibits exceptional power and concentration, but this historic terroir has also provided a surreal lightness to the wine's impression. Beautiful flavors, sensational depth, and abundant structure suggest this 2004 will not be close to full maturity for 8-10 years. It should last for four decades.

A very deep purple colour. The nose needs some coaxing. It is more delicate than usual, not as precocious than the 2003. The palate is more about poise than power - very fine acidity. Robust tannins, more masculine than in previous years. Huge grip though, its concentration creeps up on you and makes its presence felt on the persistent finish. Very broody at the moment. Perhaps missing that profundity of the 2000 or 2003, yet it has that brilliant poise that makes Ausone so special. A return to the more classic style definitely. It may need time to come around though, perhaps 5 to 6 years. Tasted April 2005.