This is a superb set of releases and I can’t recommend the wines highly enough. The 2004 Testamatta (85% Sangiovese, 15% Canaiolo), Graetz’s top red, presents gorgeous aromatics and deeply expressive layers of sweet dark fruit in a highly individualistic display of elegance, with superb length and fine tannins on the finish. The new oak tannins are still very much present and this wine is in need of some bottle age, but it has all the ingredients of a truly special wine. (AG)