1998 Vieux Chateau Certan, Pomerol, France 3.0L

A prodigious effort, this dense ruby/purple-colored 1998 reveals an explosive bouquet of licorice, cedar, spice box, and jammy blackberry, currant, and cherry fruit. Profoundly concentrated, with great flavor, purity, as well as extraordinary complexity and palate presence, this wine boasts multiple layers of flavor, silky tannin, a thick, viscous texture, and a 45-second finish. The glycerin and huge extract conceal what appear to be high levels of tannin. Unusually for Vieux-Chateau-Certan, this wine contains no Cabernet Franc, being a blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, harvested at a low 34 hectoliters per hectare. It is a superstar of the vintage!