1996 Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac, France 3.0L

"I agree that among the first-growths, this wine is showing surprising forwardness and complexity in its aromatics. It possesses an exuberant, flamboyant bouquet of roasted coffee, and new sadde leather. This full-bodied, ripe, rich, concentrated, superbly balanced wine is paradoxical in the sense that the aromatics suggest a far more evolved wine than the flavors reveal."

Incredible nose of ultraripe fruit, it's yet subtle and complex. Full-bodied, with very ripe, almost sweet fruit and a long, long caressing finish. Superb. This is edging out the 1995.--'95/'96 Bordeaux retrospective.

This is an excellent Mouton-Rothschild that might warrant a higher score if it continues to improve. It has a ?classic? Pauillac nose of graphite, pencil shavings and tobacco, later a whiff of a mahogany bureau in a stately home. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, quite austere tannins, but wonderful balance and the tension that the 2000 so badly needs. Very harmonious and youthful towards the finish. It actually reminds me of the 1986 in some ways. Superb. Tasted February 2011.

" Bright ruby with a palish rim. Intense, fragrant aromas of strawberry, iris, coffee, white pepper and bay leaf are lifted by an aromatic spice note; one can recognize the cabernet franc here. Rich, dense and suave, with very pure red fruit, cedar and herb flavors that coat the palate and are nicely carried by vibrant, harmonious acidity. Finishes with outstanding length, noble tannins and a late spicy, floral kick. This outstanding Mouton has improved enormously since its release. Tourbier agrees: "We were a little worried initially that this Mouton seemed too rigid, almost austere. Instead, it did a complete turnaround once bottled, surprising us as well." Ian d'agata