The 2004 d’Yquem is initially a little disjointed on the nose. It does meld together with aeration, but it never attains the complexity or nuance of a top-flight Yquem. Hints of white chocolate and clear honey emerge with time however; it needs to demonstrate more hubris and ambition. The palate is nicely balanced with a fine line of acidity with a noticeable citric edge. Perhaps this Yquem is amidst a broody spell, for here the likes of de Fargues and Suduiraut appear to offer more spark and more pizzazz. It would not surprise me if this has more to offer in several years’ time. (NM)
