1989 Chateau Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan, France 750ml

The prodigious 1989 Haut-Brion is one of the greatest first-growths I have ever tasted. It has always reminded me of what the 1959 must have tasted like in its youth, but it is even richer and more compelling aromatically. The wine exhibits an opaque ruby/purple color, as well as a sweet nose of jammy fruit, tobacco, spicy oak, minerals, and smoke. Fabulously concentrated, with huge levels of fruit, extract, and glycerin, this wine is nearly viscous because of its thickness and richness. Low acidity gives the wine even more appeal and adds to its precociousness. The wine has not budged in development since it was first bottled, although it has always provided thrilling drinking because of its voluptuous texture. It needs another 5-6 years of bottle age before it will begin to develop Haut-Brion's fabulous fragrance. Expect it to hit its plateau of maturity around 2003-2005 and drink well for 15-25 years.

This is unbelievable. Greatest Haut-Brion ever made. It's so evocative and multitlayered. Exotic aromas of fruit, leather, tobacco and earth and hints of spices. Full-bodied, with an amazing concentration of fruit and velvety tannins. The finish goes on for minutes.--1989 Bordeaux horizontal.

Medium-full colour. Lovely nose. This is ravashing and complex and has very lovely ripe, lush, fragrant fruit. Real class, depth and intensity. Fullish, opulent, very mature tannins. Excellent harmony. Very fine grip. Grand vin!

The 1989 Haut-Brion is, of course, a modern-day legend, and while it may be the most concentrated Haut-Brion of the last 50 or more years, it is also classic Haut-Brion with its notes of red and black fruits, scorched earth, camphor, and charcoal. Unctuously textured, thick, but at the same time elegant and even surreal, it¿s a fabulous wine, and I hope to drink every bottle I have before my time comes to pass. May, 2010

Finally, the immortal Château Haut-Brion 1989. Of course, this is a terrible wine: a hideous, unpalatable First Growth that is an insult to humanity. But being the philanthropic gentleman that I am, I am willing to accept any bottles that you wish to dispose of. I deserve a knighthood for my chivalry! Seriously, it remains one of the few 20th century icons to truly unite every critic, every consumer; a multi-dimensional Graves that you should try once in your life.