Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

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WA

2017 Domaine Paul Pillot Les Caillerets, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, France 1.5L

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets is one bottling that Pillot suspects will surpass his 2014 rendition, and I'm inclined to agree, though no-one would regret owning either. Offering up aromas of crushed chalk, white flowers, green apple and pear, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny but incisive, with lovely energy and cut to balance its concentration and structuring dry extract.

2017 Domaine Paul Pillot La Romanee, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, France 1.5L

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée is superb, unwinding in the glass with aromas of waxy lemon rind, green apple, crisp melon, tangerine, wet stones and a light framing of smoky reduction. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and satiny textured, with grand cru depth and dimension, superb concentration and bright balancing acids, concluding with a long, chalky finish. This is a magical La Romanée from Pillot!

2017 Domaine Paul Pillot La Grande Montagne, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, France 750ml

A cuvée which sees no new wood, the 2017 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru La Grand Montagne wafts from the glass with aromas of lemon oil, white flowers and crushed chalk. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, tight-knit and searingly mineral, with considerable concentration and chalky dry extract, underpinned by a racy line of animating acidity and concluding with a long, tongue-tingling finish. This is a superb wine that will appeal to Burgundy purists.

2017 Domaine Paul Pillot Les Grandes Ruchottes, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, France 750ml

Another of the range's high points is the 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Grandes Ruchottes, a stunning wine that unfurls in the glass with a classic bouquet of pear, iodine, green apple, waxy lemon rind and wet stones. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and limpid, with a pure, elegantly textural profile, succulent acids and a long, lingering finish. Grandes Ruchottes is never the most incisive site out of the blocks, but it retains its freshness and energy with bottle age to a remarkable degree.

2017 Domaine Paul Pillot Les Caillerets, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, France 750ml

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets is one bottling that Pillot suspects will surpass his 2014 rendition, and I'm inclined to agree, though no-one would regret owning either. Offering up aromas of crushed chalk, white flowers, green apple and pear, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny but incisive, with lovely energy and cut to balance its concentration and structuring dry extract.

2017 Domaine Paul Pillot La Romanee, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, France 750ml

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Romanée is superb, unwinding in the glass with aromas of waxy lemon rind, green apple, crisp melon, tangerine, wet stones and a light framing of smoky reduction. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and satiny textured, with grand cru depth and dimension, superb concentration and bright balancing acids, concluding with a long, chalky finish. This is a magical La Romanée from Pillot!

1989 Chateau Lynch-Bages, Pauillac, France 375ml

The 1989 has taken forever to shed its formidable tannins, but what a great vintage of Lynch Bages! I would rank it at the top of the pyramid although the 1990, 2000, and down the road, some of the more recent vintages such as 2005, 2009 and 2010 should come close to matching the 1989's extraordinary concentration and undeniable aging potential. Its dense purple color reveals a slight lightening at the edge and the stunning bouquet offers classic notes of creme de cassis, subtle smoke, oak and graphite.

1996 Chateau Montrose, Saint-Estephe, France 3.0L

Tasted at the vertical in London, I have instead used the tasting note from a bottle opened at the property when I visited just a couple of weeks later. The 1996 Montrose is a blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot picked between 23 September and 6 October. It was served alongside the 1986 Montrose, however, this is a far better wine and reconfirms Robert Parker's remarks at his own vertical at the property in 2014.

2015 Domaine du Clos de Tart Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France 750ml

The 2015 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is a monumental young wine, opening in the glass with a brooding bouquet of wild berries, peony, orange rind, licorice, espresso roast and spice. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, powerful and multidimensional, with an enormous core of vibrant fruit, an ample chassis of fine tannins and a beautiful line of acidity.

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