Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

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WA

1989 Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac, France 750ml

This particular vintage has cropped up several times in 2012. Here, served in Bordeaux, it has a leafy bouquet with graphite infused blackberry and briary aromas that build beautifully in the glass. It is quintessential Lafite - elegant and refined, with no desire to impress by its power. The palate is supremely well balanced with fine tannins that frame the undergrowth and cedar-tinged black fruit. It is wonderfully composed, a stately Lafite-Rothschild that is at its peak. Beautiful. (NM)

1999 Chateau L'Eglise-Clinet, Pomerol, France 750ml

Denis Durantou explained that analytically, the Château l'Eglise-Clinet 1999 is exactly the same as the 1998, although it is completely different in taste. He also said that it was the last vintage that he had to chaptalize (a little). Poured from magnum, it is clearly more mild-mannered on the nose than the preceding vintage, but still extremely well defined with blackberry and briary scents, a hint of black truffle and incense following later. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly grainy tannin.

2010 Chateau Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Leognan, France 375ml

The 2010 Haut Bailly has consistently been a fantastic wine, and at seven years of age I have no reason to alter that view. It has a mixture of red and black fruit on the nose, wet stone, black olive and a light marine influence. It is still backward compared to other vintages, but it has not relinquished one iota of its intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin. This is a voluminous Haut Bailly, one that is beginning to stretch its muscles, with a gentle grip in the mouth with a wonderful saline finish.

2005 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou, Saint-Julien, France 750ml

Deep garnet colored, the 2005 Ducru-Beaucaillou needs a little coaxing before slipping sensuously out of the glass with the most alluring perfume of red roses, kirsch, star anise, cardamom and fragrant earth over a core of blackcurrant pastilles, blackberry preserves and warm plums plus a touch of tobacco. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has a wonderfully taut, tightly knit frame of fine-grained tannins and bold freshness supporting the densely packed fruit, finishing long and perfumed. (LPB)

1995 Chateau d'Yquem, Sauternes, France 750ml

Served from an ex-chateau bottle. The 1995 Chateau d’Yquem is moving into its secondary aroma phase. A deep golden color, it has a dense and almost Barsac-like bouquet with tangerine, apricot, acacia and melted candle wax. It displays good intensity, unfolding beautifully in the glass. The palate has a strident opening, with a slight bitter edge that lends this Yquem great tension. One can discern layers of marmalade infused with honey fruit, with a powerful, spicy finish that lingers long in the mouth. This is drinking perfectly now, but will surely age with style over many years. (NM)

2007 Chateau d'Yquem, Sauternes, France 750ml

Pale to medium gold colored, the 2007 d'Yquem delivers powerful scents of tropical fruits—dried mangoes and pineapple paste—accented by acacia honey, toasted almonds and woodsmoke with hints of chalk dust, kettle corn and lime blossom. The palate reveals one of those vintages that shape-shifts into an apparently drier style than it is, largely thanks to its uber-racy backbone of freshness and layered mineral-inspired flavors, finishing with a regal, satin-textured savoriness.

2005 Chateau Cos d'Estournel, Saint-Estephe, France 375ml

The 2005 Cos d'Estournel is blended of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc. Deep garnet colored, it is still a little closed and youthfully shy. With coaxing, the nose is just beginning to offer glimpses at vivacious kirsch, red roses, violets, licorice and mocha scents over a crème de cassis, blackberry pie and chocolate-covered cherry core with wafts of chargrill, mossy bark and truffles.

2000 Chateau Angelus, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, France 750ml

Medium garnet-brick in color, the 2000 Angélus comes galloping out of the glass with a powerful nose of fragrant earth, damp soil, iron ore and cigar box over a core of prunes, blackberry jam and dried mulberries. Medium-bodied, the palate is elegantly styled with great freshness and loads of earth and mineral-inspired layers, framed by grainy tannins, finishing with a lingering menthol lift. It is in a sweet spot for drinking right now, although it should go on for another 15-20 years. (LPB)

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