Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

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2014 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Extra Brut, Champagne, France 750ml

The 2014 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses, the latest rendition from this walled vineyard, reveals a fresh, energetic character with aromas of pear, peach, licorice, spices, white fruits, spring flowers and menthol. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and chiseled, this is a structured, tension-filled but ethereal Champagne with high acidity, sign of a cool-weather vintage. Although already thoroughly enjoyable, it should age well over the next 10 years. This is a blend of 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay, disgorged with 4.25 grams per liter dosage. (YC)

2012 Domaine Armand Rousseau Pere et Fils Clos Saint-Jacques, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, France 750ml

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint Jacques from Armand Rousseau has the most sensual nose of the quintet, perhaps the ripest with maraschino cherries, fresh strawberry and fruits pastilles. This is certainly the most generous nose. The palate is medium-bodied with supple ripe tannin, more modern in style but very pure and harmonious. The oak is a little more pronounced on the finish but that will be subsumed in time, and then it will be a Clos Saint Jacques that you'll with you could drink every day. (NM)

2007 Paul Avril Clos des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone, France 750ml

One of the great vintages from this estate, surpassing even the 1990, 2000, 2001, 2003, and maybe the 2010 (time will tell with this one), the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape from Vincent Avril delivers everything you could want from a wine. Full-bodied, intense and beautifully concentrated, with plenty of muscle and depth, it shows the hallmark elegance and purity of the estate, with sensational notes of kirsch liqueur, raspberries, incense, smoked meats and Asian spices.

2018 Azienda Agricola La Torre Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany, Italy 750ml

From vintner Luigi Ananìa, the La Torre 2018 Brunello di Montalcino offers a good sense of volume and richness without ever feeling too heavy. The wine maintains etched lines over a lean-bodied approach and dry tannins. There is dried cherry, grilled earth, blue flower and soft earth. Pretty mineral nuances follow suit. Fruit is sourced from across 4.9 hectares of vines at 420 meters in elevation. Some 14,000 bottles were made. (ML)

2019 G.D. Vajra Albe, Barolo DOCG, Italy 3.0L

This is certainly one of the most popular and versatile wines made in Italy, and deservedly so. The well-priced G.D. Vajra 2019 Barolo Albe shows some ripe fruit and softness with cherry, dried raspberry and crushed rose. This vintage is similar in character to the 2016 release in that both vintages offer a linear style with good structure at the back. The mouthfeel is polished and long, affording accessibility and complexity too. (ML)

2019 G.D. Vajra Bricco delle Viole, Barolo DOCG, Italy 3.0L

The last wine poured at my tasting at the winery is the G.D. Vajra 2019 Barolo Bricco delle Viole. With its high vantage point in the hills west of Barolo, Bricco delle Viole is a world apart in terms of soils (with Sant'Agata marl and fossils) and even harvest times. Slow and careful ripening like the kind that characterizes fruit in 2019 renders a very delicate and ethereal expression with floral tones, wild mint and licorice. This organic wine is solid in build and structure. Indeed, Isidoro Vaira remarks that Nebbiolo tannins have changed since the 1970s and 1980s.

2019 G.D. Vajra Ravera, Barolo DOCG, Italy 750ml

The organic G.D. Vajra 2019 Barolo Ravera (with fruit from the most sought-after cru in the village of Novello) reveals gorgeous tonality and color. The wine shines bright with dark ruby and garnet gemstone. Healthy Nebbiolo colors like this can be admired across the 2019 vintage. Ravera represents a union of different geologies from Barolo and Castiglione Falletto. The site has shown extraordinary versatility, especially in the face of climate change, to make wines of both strength and elegance.

2019 G.D. Vajra Bricco delle Viole, Barolo DOCG, Italy 750ml

The last wine poured at my tasting at the winery is the G.D. Vajra 2019 Barolo Bricco delle Viole. With its high vantage point in the hills west of Barolo, Bricco delle Viole is a world apart in terms of soils (with Sant'Agata marl and fossils) and even harvest times. Slow and careful ripening like the kind that characterizes fruit in 2019 renders a very delicate and ethereal expression with floral tones, wild mint and licorice. This organic wine is solid in build and structure. Indeed, Isidoro Vaira remarks that Nebbiolo tannins have changed since the 1970s and 1980s.

2019 G.D. Vajra Albe, Barolo DOCG, Italy 750ml

This is certainly one of the most popular and versatile wines made in Italy, and deservedly so. The well-priced G.D. Vajra 2019 Barolo Albe shows some ripe fruit and softness with cherry, dried raspberry and crushed rose. This vintage is similar in character to the 2016 release in that both vintages offer a linear style with good structure at the back. The mouthfeel is polished and long, affording accessibility and complexity too. (ML)

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