Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 2015 Brut La Grande Année was disgorged last year with eight grams per liter dosage. The wine has turned out beautifully, exhibiting a more muscular, old-school Bollinger profile in contrast to the unusually racy, fine-boned 2014 that preceded it. Wafting from the glass with notes of pear, orange oil and white flowers mingled with notions of mocha, toasted hazelnuts and fino sherry, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and textural, with a dense core of fruit framed by chalky structuring extract, concluding with a long, sapid finish. (WK)

Yellow plums, apples, and white flowers can be discerned in the nose of the 2002 Meursault Chevalieres. Highly focused, pure, and detailed, it offers minerals, pears, and apples in its lengthy, expressive character. Drink it over the next 6-7 years. (PR)

The super-spicy 2002 Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseigneres is a light to medium-bodied wine of outstanding depth. Lively talcum and mineral flavors can be found in its delineated and detailed character. In addition, this wine sports a sweet, long, supple finish. (PR)

Raveneau's 2005 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre is beginning to drink beautifully as it approaches age 13, wafting from the glass with a complex bouquet of lemon oil, mandarin, drawn butter, iodine, beeswax and dried white flowers. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and textural, with the mid-palate richness and generosity of a warm vintage but with a delineated, chalky finish that's faithful to the Montée de Tonnerre. This is a gourmand, fleshy vintage for Raveneau—though not to the extent of 2006 or 2003—but the wines are aging gracefully. (WK)

The 2009 Chablis Blanchots is deep, powerful and intense, particularly in the way it blossoms on the palate with layers of radiant fruit. This is a striking wine graced with an expressive, open personality that resonates through to the generous finish. I especially like the raciness of the fruit (AG)

The 2011 Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial was produced with a blend of 84% Tempranillo and 16% Mazuelo (Cariñena) from a plot called La Plana that was planted in 1950 at 485 meters in altitude, the highest in the Ygay property. The grapes were picked between September 17 and 22, and the Mazuelo was later, on September 28. The bunches were destemmed and lightly crushed and put to ferment in stainless steel for 11 days with constant pump-overs and punch-downs. The Tempranillo matured for 28 months in American oak barrels and the Mazuelo for 28 months in French barriques.

I had very high expectations for the 2010 Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial, and the wine delivered as expected. 2010 was one of the finest vintages in Rioja in recent years, and this blend of Tempranillo with 15% Mazuelo (Cariñena) has to be one of the finest modern day Castillo de Ygays. The grapes come from a plot planted in 1966 at 485 meters in altitude, the highest in the estate, and the vines yielded 3,500 kilos per hectare. The two varieties fermented separately in stainless steel for 11 days, and the wine spent 26 months in a mixture of American and French oak barrels.

Marqués de Murrieta didn't produce their top red in 2008, so I tasted the 2009 Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial. In 2009, the final blend was Tempranillo with 19% Mazuelo (or Cariñena), one of the highest percentages of Mazuelo ever. The grapes are now sourced from the La Plana vineyard within the Ygay estate, one of the higher-altitude plots at 485 meters. The grapes fermented and aged separately, the Tempranillo in American oak barrels and the Mazuelo in French barriques for 26 months, given its power.

Another cuvée that was also in bottle when I visited, the 2022 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru unfurls in the glass with aromas of cherries and raspberries mingled with exotic notes and sweet forest floor. Medium to full-bodied, layered and fleshy, it's concentrated and textural, with nicely integrated tannins, lively acids and a long, saline, rose-inflected finish. Its more sensual style is a welcome evolution. (WK)

The 2022 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is very attractive, bursting with aromas of cherries, raspberries, blood orange, rose petals and vine smoke. Full-bodied, rich and concentrated, it's layered and fleshy, with a deep and seamless core of fruit that conceals powdery structuring tannins, concluding with a broad, perfumed finish. If this fulfills all its promise in bottle, it may make my score look conservative. (WK)