Disgorged in May 2019 with 65 grams per liter dosage, the new release of Doyard's NV Doux La Libertine is one of the best examples one can find of this often overlooked category. Evocative of biscuits, white flowers and candied citrus peel, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and fleshy, with a charming, attractively complex profile.
A visit to this venerable Vertus domaine is invariably one of the highlights of my time in Champagne, and my late 2020 tasting was no exception. Blessed with 10 hectares of prime holdings in Versus, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, Avize, Cramant and Aÿ, their vines—some of which are cordon-pruned and all of which are farmed without herbicides or pesticides—produce intensely concentrated grapes that are selectively pressed and vinified in wood. Deep, concentrated and characterful, everything that bears the Doyard label is well worth serious attention, and these new releases are especially impressive. Indeed, given the quality to be found at this address—and the long track record—the wines deserve to be even better known. William Kelley
