The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Grandes Ruchottes is showing brilliantly, revealing an incipiently complex bouquet of lime, pear, waxy citrus rind, white flowers and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated and muscular, its textural attack segues into a lively, tensile mid-palate, before concluding with chalky grip. This is one of the wines that can rival its 2017 counterpart chez Pillot. (WK)