The brilliant 2017 Meursault Les Meix Chavaux hails from vines that are almost ninety years old—likely making them the oldest in the climat—and which neighbor one of Jean-Marc Roulot's parcels in cool, easterly-exposed site. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of citrus oil, white flowers and crushed chalk, the wine is medium to full-bodied, tense and racy, with incisive acids and chewy dry extract, concluding with a long and intense finish. More tensile than the ampler Casse-Têtes, this is the purist's choice chez Lafouge this year. 91-93 Points
One of my favorite insider domaines in Burgundy, Domaine Jean et Gilles Lafouge produces a range of impressively consistent and compelling wines from some 10 hectares spread across the appellations of Auxey-Duresses, Meursault and Pommard. Old vines, cultivated soils and classical winemaking are the rudiments of Gilles Lafouge's recipe for success. The clean and organized cuverie and cellar immediately communicate a sense of dedication and attention to detail that comes across just as strongly in the glass. This estate is a source of superb Meursault and Pommard, but don't neglect the range of Auxey-Duresses red and white, wines that demonstrate what these terroirs can deliver when given the same treatment as more glamorous appellations. That these wines age beautifully, I can personally testify, having enjoyed a lovely 1969 Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru La Chapelle last summer—an unexpected but happy encounter on a local wine list. William Kelley, Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
