2017 Chateau de la Maltroye Morgeot Vigne Blanche, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, France 750ml

(Cournut describes these old vines--60 years old, on average--as "the best expression of Morgeot," adding that they produce a fatter style of wine): Complex, inviting aromas of white peach, lemon and minerals. Intense flavors of fresh peach and apricot show a lovely supple texture as well as firm supporting minerality, with a note of sweet oak adding appeal. Finishes sappy, smooth and long, with terrific fruity persistence. I could drink this tonight! Clearly an outstanding vintage for this cuvée. (The Chassagne-Montrachet Clos du Château de la Maltroye was dense, sappy and rather powerful, with penetrating salty minerality, but was too reduced to assess with confidence at the beginning of June.) Steve Tanzer, Vinous