The opaque purple-colored 1995 Amarone is nearly perfect. It is reminiscent of super-concentrated blackberry liqueur infused with incense, smoke, and minerals. Full-bodied, dense, and chewy, this huge offering possesses remarkable purity and liveliness for its size and intensity. Amarone is an acquired taste, given its size as well as earthy, tarry characteristics. Certainly this wine reaches new levels of extract and richness, yet is dry, well-balanced, and, because of its extravagant richness, able to hide the whopping 16.5% alcohol it routinely possesses.
Robert Parker
98