Tasting note: (opened from personal storage; from yields of 40 hl/ha). This is a confounding wine and has been largely from the beginning as there seems to be a huge gulf between what one finds in the 750 ml version (see herein) v. the magnum version. Remarkably enough at 30 years of age, even for a wine in magnum, there is no bricking, indeed the color resembles that of a 3 year old wine from a ripe vintage. While there is a whiff of volatile acidity to the expressive aromas that are clearly ripe and while there are secondary fruit nuances, there isn't a whiff of sous-bois. The big, burly, exceptionally rich and vibrant imposingly scaled flavors possess excellent depth on the powerful, driving and sappy finish. This is definitely not a wine of refinement but it one that offers much to like even if fashioned in a brawny style. I should note that with an hour of air the structure receded somewhat and the wine becomes more civilized. While I doubt that this will necessarily improve much from here, what does seem clear is that this will see its 50th birthday with no trouble and it may well see its 100th! Tasted three times from magnum format with consistent notes.
Allen Meadows, Burghound
93