A wonderfully expressive and now fully mature nose displays notes of sous bois and dried herbs plus a touch of natural spice that is picked up by the big, rich, deep and strikingly complex big-bodied flavors that still have the intensity and power to both stain and coat the palate on the sappy, delicious and gorgeously long finish. This is one of those relatively rare wines capable of delivering power with finesse and the length doesn't seem to quit. A great debut to one of the most storied white wines in Burgundy and while the '78 Ramonet Bâtard is a brilliant wine, it's clear that there is just another dimension here. Tasted four times with one bottle not being quite as good as this one but not far off either and probably due to being shipped from France to the USA and back.
Allen Meadows' Burghound
98